September Birthstone: Sapphire
The September Birthstone
Sapphire is much more than a blue gemstone. It is one of nature's most versatile gems—a stone that occurs in a rainbow of colors, with some feats of nature bizarre enough to be called phenomena. Sapphire has traveled through thousands of years of history and across the world, and it continues to find its way into jewelry and our most personal celebrations.
And this September, I'm writing about it while I am actually traveling in Madagascar, one of the world's important sapphire sources.
From ancient Greece and Rome through the Middle Ages, sapphire has been associated with protection, healing, Heaven, purity and faithfulness. Some legends even credited it with the power to protect against—or cure—the plague.
My favorite legend is one told by the ancient Persians: they believed the sky was blue because the earth rested on a giant sapphire, which reflected its blue color up into the heavens.
There is something wonderfully appropriate about that story. A sapphire is a small object, yet throughout history people have looked at it and seen something much bigger.
Sapphire represents the 5th and 45th wedding anniversaries, but its wide appeal makes it a perfect choice to celebrate almost any occasion.
What Makes It So Special
A Gem of Many Faces
Most people think of sapphire as BLUE. But did you know that sapphire naturally occurs in a wide range of colors—including pink, green, yellow, lavender, purple, black and colorless.
And did you know that only diamond is harder than sapphire? Diamond measures 10 on the Mohs scale of hardness, while sapphire measures 9.
These two characteristics—range of color and hardness—make sapphire one of the most workable gems and give us endless creative possibilities.
And if that weren't enough, nature created some truly exotic forms of sapphire.
Padparadscha is a rare pinkish-orange to orangish-pink sapphire whose color is often compared to the lotus flower.
One of our favorites is Star Sapphire. Known as asterism, its six-ray star appears when light passes through and reflects from needle-like inclusions within the stone.
Imagine a gem that changes color depending on the light. Sapphire is one of the few gemstones that can display this natural phenomenon.
Another natural anomaly occurs in parti sapphires, which display more than one color within the same gem— now, that IS a party!!!!!!
Color change, parti sapphire, Padparadscha and star sapphire are all examples of phenomena—an incredible accident of nature contained in a small object that you can look at and remain in constant wonderment of nature.
And that, to me, is part of the magic of sapphire.
History and Legends
A Gem with History
As is the case with many gemstones, sapphire legends go back to ancient times and are associated with historical figures, religious traditions and royal jewels.
Helen of Troy, King Solomon's signet ring, the tablets of the Ten Commandments, medieval tests of fidelity, papal edicts, Marco Polo and even the supposed cure for the plague—all have found their way into the long history of sapphire lore.
Many of these stories cannot be confirmed. But the fact that they have survived tells us something important: for thousands of years, people have believed sapphire possessed power.
Two of my favorite sapphire stories are particularly intriguing:
The ancient Persians believed that the earth rested on a giant sapphire, and that its reflection was what made the sky blue.
And Charlemagne is said to have worn a sapphire amulet as an expression of his devotion.
Whether legend or history, these stories give sapphire a kind of mythology that few gemstones can match.
Royal Sapphire
Throughout history, sapphire has also been linked to royalty. But the "Lady Di" sapphire engagement ring is probably the most famous royal sapphire jewel of modern times.
When given a choice of several royal jewels, Lady Diana Spencer chose a finished ring from a jeweler's catalogue—an unconventional choice for a future princess, to say the least. The ring, made by the London jeweler Garrard, featured a 12-carat oval blue sapphire surrounded by round diamonds.
Diana's choice created quite a stir within the royal family. But there is a wonderful irony in the story: the design of her ring was itself inspired by a royal jewel—a sapphire and diamond brooch given to Queen Victoria by Prince Albert in 1840. So Diana's "catalogue choice" was, in fact, connected to royal history.
And that sapphire ring went on to become one of the most recognizable pieces of jewelry in the world.
The Queen wearing The Prince Albert brooch (inset), Royal Ascot, 2015 (Getty)
Where Sapphire Comes From
Some sapphire sources conjure as much mystery as the gem itself:
Kashmir. Burma. Ceylon. Madagascar. Thailand.
Australia. Montana.
Each place has its own story, its own geology and, in some cases, its own unique character.
Going back more than 2,000 years, Sri Lanka has been mining sapphire, much of it from alluvial deposits—gravels carried and concentrated by rivers and streams.
And this is one of the things I love about gemstones: their origins are part of their story.
In Sri Lanka, miners still search through stream gravels using remarkably simple techniques that have changed little over generations.
Kashmir and Myanmar—formerly Burma—are two of the great historical sources of sapphire. Kashmir sapphire is no longer actively mined on a significant scale, and are the most highly prized and collectible sapphires in the world. Burma sapphires are also highly regarded by connoisseurs.
Today, important sapphire-producing countries include Madagascar, Sri Lanka, Australia, Tanzania and Vietnam, along with the United States—including Montana.
Yes, Montana. Montana sapphires have a distinctive character and are highly collectible.
Perhaps this geographic diversity helps explain why sapphire has accumulated so much history, mythology and perceived power. It seems to come from everywhere—and every place has an interesting story to tell.
A Little Gemology
After diamond, sapphire is the hardest natural gemstone, registering 9 on the Mohs scale of hardness.
Sapphire and ruby are both varieties of the mineral corundum. In their purest form, corundum is colorless. It is the presence of trace elements that gives these gems their color.
Iron and titanium are responsible for the blue color in sapphire. Different concentrations can produce different shades of blue. Chromium produces the red of ruby and can also produce pink in sapphire.
And this is where gemology gets really interesting: the chemistry of a tiny amount of an impurity can transform a colorless mineral into one of the world's most beautiful gemstones.
Treatments
There are a wide variety of sapphire treatments today.
Heating sapphire rough is a permanent and widely accepted treatment. It has been used for generations to improve color and clarity.
Other treatments have also made sapphire available to a wider market, which we applaud. But not all treatments are permanent.That is why we do not recommend buying treated gems without understanding exactly what treatment has been used and whether it is permanent.
Cornflower Blue
For blue sapphire, cornflower blue has long been considered the ideal color of sapphire.
The most respected gemological laboratories and the trade use specific terminology and grading criteria when describing sapphire color, so this is one place where the language matters.
How We Use Sapphire
How do I love thee, sapphire? Let me count the ways!
Sapphire is so easy to design with, work with and wear. Given its wide variety of colors, shapes and sizes, sapphire—especially blue sapphire—is easier to source than many other beautiful gems.
And because it is durable, it is practical for jewelry intended to be worn every day. For an engagement ring, sapphire can be a smart choice as either the main stone or an accent.
I have always loved the three-stone ring. No two three-stone rings are exactly alike, and there are so many ways to make the design your own. A sapphire center stone with diamonds on the sides creates one look. A diamond center with sapphire side stones creates another. Years ago, De Beers promoted the three-stone ring with a phrase that is still relevant today:
The past. The present. The future.
Sapphire as an accent is another tool we use to create either contrast or harmony in a design. A darker sapphire with lighter sapphire pavé, for example, can create a dramatic and sophisticated look.
One of my favorite color combinations is yellow and pink. Yellow sapphire makes a fabulous center stone in this kind of design. I have made several rings with yellow sapphire centers and pink diamond accents, and they remain some of the most beautiful pieces I have ever created. And the reverse is stunning, too—a pink sapphire center with yellow diamond accents or side stones.
Blue sapphire with emerald or black opal creates a sophisticated combination that just screams: I AM FABULOUS!
How do we use sapphire?
- With white diamonds
- Yellow sapphire with pink diamonds
- Pink sapphire with yellow diamonds
- Sapphire with emerald and opal
- As pavé
- As a solitaire
- With Moonstone
- With Turquiose
Earrings by Darlene De Sedle
Where Do We Begin?
And this is where we turn the conversation from sapphire to you.
The custom jewelry process is fun and very fulfilling…creating a jewel for yourself or as a gift is creating a beautiful material treasure with a soul. Jewelry with a story is treasured in a different way and becomes heirloom.
Whether extravagant or modest, we have been working with clients for over 30 years.
Over the years, we have assembled a reliable list of specialists—gemstone suppliers, designers and jewelers.
Most projects either start with a general idea for a design or start with a gem—maybe even one you already have.
