After studying and spendings countless hours with experts in the field and most important of all, looking and comparing hundreds of opals, I am now obsessed. I want to share this amazing natural wonder with you in a series of blogs. My hope is to get you as interested and as excited as I am!
The purpose of this first installment is to lay some general groundwork essential to understanding this unique gem. Additional installments will feature the crazy world of opal mining, sources, and specific varieties.
Photo of Precious opal
Opals are an extremely complex gem with no two being exactly alike. The term opal refers to two general groups: common and precious. The most striking feature of precious opal is the incredible display of light. Common opal does not have this spectral display so is not nearly as interesting. Precious opal occurs in many forms— the most well known are black, boulder, crystal, water, light , yowah-nut and fire opal.
Since Opals are relatively soft, 5.0-6.5 on the Mohs scale of hardness, they are best suited for necklaces, earrings and special occasion rings or bracelets.
Although there have been debates on the certainty of its origins, various words that may have been referring to opal have been discovered since ancient times across many cultures. However, Hungary was the first documented commercial supplier of a light opal variety to the old world prior to the discovery of opal deposits in Australia in the mid-late 19th century.
Hungarian opal enjoyed success for a couple hundred years and was even included in the collection of Queen Victoria. Then, prices plummeted after the first book of the trilogy published in 1829 by Sir Walter Scott. A character in the story, Lady Hermione, died after her opal was destroyed by a drop of holy water. Just like that, opals became with bad luck, talk about an influencer! Opal did not yet gain popularity again until the striking material began circulating from he new mines in Australia some 50 years later.
Everything about opal is fascinating—it’s history, mineralogy, formation and mining. For example, opal consists of the elements silica and oxygen, the two most abundant elements on earth. Opal's chemical formula is SiO₂·nH₂O which tells us that these common elements combine with water in variable concentrations and, if conditions are right, and time is available, the result is an infinite variation of effects—this is why each opal is one of a kind. These proper geologic conditions are not widespread and include Australia, Mexico, Honduras, Ethiopia, United States and Brazil.
Common elements + water + strict conditions + time = precious opal
Opal is not actually a mineral but considered a mineraloid. A mineraloid is similar to a mineral in appearance but does not demonstrate crystallinity and is amorphous which means it does not have an ordered atomic structure like a mineral. Other mineraloids that you may be familiar with are pearls and amber.
Another interesting fact about opal compared to other gemstones: Opal is geologically young as it forms much later than the host rock and it referred to as a secondary mineraloid. All other gems form at the same time as the surrounding rock.
Opal is characterized by 2 things--body color and play of color. Body color is a chemical phenomena and is caused by trace impurities. Body color can be red such as in fire opal, black as in black opal and clear as in crystal opal. The play of color is the “personality" of opal and is the result of structural formation and is described in terms such as "pin fire", “straw”, “rolling flash" and “harlequin.”’
Learning about new gemstones has always fascinated me and I can’t wait to share with you what makes opals so spectacular. Creating classic, one-of-a-kind jewelry is our specialty and what better to do it with than a beautiful, rare and exotic opal! Stay tuned for future installments and design ideas for your next show-stopping piece from Susan L. Kottemann, INC.
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From the traditional Catholic wedding mass to a more modern secular wedding ceremonies, the exchanging of wedding bands is a meaningful event that transcends culture and religion. The wedding ring represents never ending love, as it has no beginning and no end. Typically made from precious metals like gold, silver, or platinum, wedding rings often hold monetary value as well as sentimental value. People wear wedding rings as a reminder of the promise they made to their faithful partner and as an outward symbol of love.
For Christian couples, rings are exchanged by the husband and wife during the wedding ceremony after the vows have taken place. The rings are a symbol of everlasting love and the promise of commitment to their soulmate. Many Christian wedding ceremonies feature phrases like, “Take this ring as a token of my love and faithfulness, in the name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Spirit.” Catholics believe that the ring is both a symbol of the wearer's love and devotion to their partner, and a reminder of the promise that the partner made to the wearer. Traditionally, Christian weddings are adjourned by a blessing for the newlywed couple.
The Kiddushin is the point during an Orthodox Jewish wedding ceremony where the groom gives a ring to the bride. Traditionally, the bride would not offer a ring in return but recently it has become more common for a mutual exchange of rings to take place. To adhere to the religious traditions, the ring must be given to the groom only after the Kiddushin has taken place.
Many Rabbis prefer to have the bride present the groom with his ring during the signing of the Ketubah (Traditional marriage “contract”). The bride will offer the ring while saying: “Tikabel taba’at zo vi’tihayev li bkhol hiyuvay ketubah zo k’dat Moshe v’Yisrael”–“Accept this ring and obligate yourself to me with all the obligations of this ketubah, according to the law of Moses and Israel.” As the groom is given the ring to wear, he agrees to remain faithful, committing his heart and soul to his new wife.
Unlike the typical western wedding ceremony where the celebrations are focused around one day, Indian wedding and engagement festivities can last up to a year. As a part of these large celebrations, some Indian & Punjabi families hold what is called a Sagai ceremony for the couple before their wedding day.
The Sagai is the event wherein the groom officially asks for the bride's hand in marriage. During the celebration, the bride and groom exchange gold rings in the presence of their family. This is said to bring good fortune on the soon-to-be newlyweds as the rings are now endowed with the blessings and well-wishes of their loved ones. When the Sagai concludes, it is typically followed by the families gathering together to exchange gifts with the couple and enjoy a traditional meal.
Much like Indian culture, pre-wedding celebrations are a huge part of Islamic culture. When the couple has mutually agreed on the terms of their marriage, their families will often hold a Mangni. The Mangni is an engagement ceremony where the families and friends of the bride and groom celebrate the impending marriage. The couple will exchange rings in front of family and friends at this time. The families then shower the pair in gifts and sweets. It is imperative, according to custom, that the groom must not wear a gold ring, though the bride is allowed the ring of her choosing. A wedding date will be announced either during or following the Mangni.
A significant amount of cultures and religions recognize the toe ring as a symbol of a married woman's commitment to her spouse. Both Hindu and Muslim women have been known to wear gold or silver toe rings instead of Western style finger rings. These traditional foot ornaments are known by various names depending on the culture they are recognized in. They may be known as Metti, Bichiya, Mettelu, or Kalungra. Traditionally worn on the second toe, the ring or rings which are usually silver, are said to serve both a representational and literal purpose. These rings are said to vitalize and balance the body, helping the wife live a happy and long life. The rings are placed onto the feet of the woman during the time of the wedding as a symbol of the man placing his honor and commitment before his bride.
Many people are venturing away from their parent’s religions in favor of other beliefs that better suit their ideals. Non-denominational and secular ceremonies are growing in popularity. Why then, are people still exchanging wedding rings, a tradition seemingly tied to religious meaning?
The wedding band holds remarkable meaning as a symbol of everlasting love and commitment. It is the symbol that has come to represent the circle of life and all of the events therein. Birth, life, love, and death. All beautiful and meaningful parts of life. These events are especially poignant when shared with another human being. The wedding ring is a promise to be apart of someone’s world to share, celebrate, and even mourn with them throughout this life.
Across tradition and religion, the ring is seen as a promise and a reminder of the day two souls were bonded as one. Whether your ring exchange includes classic vows like “With this ring, I thee wed.” you choose to put your own spin on vows, or you don’t include vows at all, you are infusing that ring with personal meaning. In exchanging the rings, you are telling the one you love “I want you to join my life. I choose you to celebrate with, laugh with, and cry with.” As the ring encircles your finger, it serves as a symbol of the vows that have been spoken and the love you will share together.
]]>Tsavorite garnet has been nicknamed the “King of Garnet” for a good reason. Only found in Tanzania and Kenya in commercial quantities, tsavorite is notoriously difficult to obtain. It was discovered in Tanzania in 1967 by geologist Campbell R. Bridges. A second deposit of this radiant green gem was again discovered by Bridges in the Tsavo region of Kenya in 1970. This green garnet did not receive its name until 1973, when former President of Tiffany & CO. and Campbell Bridges named it after one of the oldest and largest parks in Kenya, Tsavo National Park. Tsavorite meaning stone of Tsavo. Two main mining sites remain in Kenya and Tanzania. According to the Mohs scale, tsavorite garnet hardness ranks 7.25 to 7.5, which means that this gem has a good level of toughness. This rating tells us that tsavorite is a good gem for daily wear, it won’t scuff or scratch easily. Tsavorite is a green variety of grossular garnet, though the color of tsavorite ranges from yellow-green to emerald green.
Tsavorite is known for its vibrant green color that rivals emeralds, but is much more rare. Despite their rarity, when compared to emerald stones of a similar size they can cost up to one-tenth the price of an emerald. Tsavorite and emerald are the same hardness on the Mohs scale, but this is simply how easily the surface of a stone will scratch. Emeralds have cleavage and are less stable than tsavorite making them prone to damage from daily impact. Tsavorite also has a higher refractive index than emeralds, making them brighter and shinier. It is very difficult to obtain an emerald with little to no inclusions or impurities whereas tsavorite generally exhibits far fewer inclusions. Speaking to the gem's quality, tsavorite is more transparent and resistant to breaking. A tsavorite ring may suit a more active lifestyle given emerald is less durable. Emerald rings often require a gentle wearer and a protective setting to prevent damage.
Since tsavorite stones are a type of grossular garnet, it is acceptable to classify it as a January birthstone for those who don’t favor garnet’s most well-known pomegranate-red color. Garnet is a diverse gem in a wide array of colors, from orange and red to green and yellow. The January birthstone is a versatile one. The rarest of all garnets, tsavorite makes the most unique choice for January birthstone jewelry. To many, tsavorite represents strength and confidence. Being a form of garnet, tsavorite is closely connected with the heart chakra. It is rumored to enhance fertility, strengthen the kidneys, and encourage new growth.
Susan Kottemann is a connoisseur of fine gems with a love of unique and rare jewels. Her keen eye for detail helps her curate mystifying gems from across the world. Tsavorite is one of Susan’s favorite stones. She enjoys visiting Africa, especially Kenya and Tanzania’s tsavorite locales where tsavorite is mined. When she returns home, she brings back the connections she has made on her travels to ethically import these precious gems to the USA.
Tsavorite is definitely a beautiful gem with endless potential. While not as in-demand as rubies and sapphires, this underrated beauty deserves appreciation. Vibrant colors, durability, and clarity create a trifecta of perfection for collectors and connoisseurs of fine gems and jewelry. Tsavorite is near flawless, requiring no chemical treatments to enhance its natural beauty. These gems are perfect for jewelry, sure to impress anyone who sees them. They look beautiful as jewelry and can be worn daily with little worry of tarnish or damage. Contact our store today to inquire about purchasing a custom tsavorite necklace, tsavorite ring, tsavorite bracelet, or tsavorite earrings! Show this high quality gem some love by adding it to your collection today!
]]>Rose gold was first used in the early 19th century. It is also known as "Russian gold" due to its connection to esteemed Russian Jeweler Carl Faberge, the creator of the infamous Faberge eggs. This fresh new style quickly grew in popularity, eventually enchanting the people of the United States during the roaring twenties. A main proponent of rose gold jewelry’s rise to fame was fashion label Cartier. The advent of their wildly popular “Trinity Ring” captivated the masses. The stunning ring was the first of its kind, featuring three colors of gold. Famed artist and writer Jean Cocteau was often seen wearing this Cartier ring which only fueled its renowned reputation.
Photo of a yellow gold ring next to a pink gold ring
Platinum jewelry overtook the market as the preferred metal throughout the 1930s. The onset of World War II in the 1940s meant platinum was needed for military use. Suddenly a scarce material, many countries forbid the use of platinum for non-military purposes. This gave rise to the popularity of rose gold jewelry once again. Since this time, rose gold has remained a popular style for wedding bands, engagement rings, necklaces, earrings, and more.
Naturally formed gold can come in shades ranging from green to a yellowish red color. The intensity of these colors is usually dependent on other naturally occurring alloys and minerals in the area where the gold was unearthed.
Pure gold is too soft to be used in jewelry making so it is often mixed with copper alloys to help improve it’s durability. The amount of alloy metals added can change the karat, or unit of purity, of the gold being used. This is why jewelers will often note the purity of their gold jewelry by using terms like 14 karat gold or 18 K gold. The higher the karat, the higher the percentage of gold. This measurement helps people better understand the purity and price point of the item they are purchasing. Gold alloys include, but are not limited to: platinum, palladium, nickel, zinc, iron, copper, and sterling silver. These materials help to prevent scratches, dents, and blemishes.
The type and amount of compounds used to strengthen gold can also influence its color. Gold is naturally yellow-toned. When yellow gold is mixed with an alloy such as palladium or nickel, it will produce white gold which is later enhanced with rhodium plating. Similarly, rose gold, also called pink gold, is formed when yellow gold is mixed with a copper alloy. The amount of copper added to the gold will affect the gold tone. As copper is added, the gold will gradually take on more of its distinctive pink color.
Not only is rose gold a beautiful choice for any piece of jewelry, it is also a practical one. Nickel, a common metal additive found in white gold jewelry, is often noted to aggravate allergies. This is especially true for people with sensitive skin. It is important to note that not all white gold contains nickel. It may be important to discuss the composition of white gold with the jewelry artist. Since rose gold is made with copper, it is less likely to cause any type of reaction. This hypoallergenic combination unfortunately makes rose gold slightly harder to work with. As it is a very brittle metal, setting diamonds and other gems in rose gold requires a lot of time and patience on behalf of the jeweler. Rose or pink gold can require less maintenance than its yellow and white counterparts. This is due to the fact that rhodium plating used on white gold is prone to take damage over time.
Copper alloy rings may darken slightly as time passes, but the original color will simply change to a deeper red color. This can be seen as a benefit to some as they appreciate a more vintage vibe from their gold jewelry. Rose gold rings are a truly timeless style that pairs well with every skin tone, but gives fair skin tones a nice warm tone. The beautiful rose color makes perfect engagement rings and wedding bands, and also looks radiant when paired with both yellow and white gold. If rose gold is your style, our 18K Pink Gold Curb Link Chain Ring or 18K Pink Gold Rose Cut Diamond Neapolitan Ring might peak your interest!
]]>The world of garnets is diverse, fascinating, and intense – both in color range and history. And their value is far higher now that we are more educated about the rarer specimens. Given their beauty, durability and collectability, garnet in every variety has become the darling of the gemstone trade.
Garnets occur in a breathtaking array of colors, including shades of orange, green, purple, red, and even color-change. As in all gemstones, chemical composition is responsible for the array of colors and is a particularly complex subject in garnet. But, put simply, the presence of aluminum creates the red and orange hues in the almandine, pyrope and spessartine group and calcium is responsible for the lovely green hues in the grossular, andradite and uvarovite groups. As fascinating as the gemology of garnet is, it is the beauty of these spectacular stones that I’d like to talk about now. Since garnets are a huge mineral group and too large to cover in a single blog, this blog will cover the green garnet varieties which happen to be, in my opinion, among the most beautiful gems in the world.
Considered the most rare and valuable is the demantoid garnet. First discovered in Russia in 1868 in the Ural Mountains, the miners were impressed with this garnets high refractive quality and exceptional brilliance, and immediately referred to it as “demantoid”, from the Dutch word for “diamond”. Demantoid garnet was also known as the “Gem of the Tsars,” and the famous jeweler Peter Carl Faberge frequently used this exceptionally lively garnet in his creations. Demantoid garnet color can range from a bright yellow green to a deep forest green. One of my favorite facts about Demantoid garnet is that it is the only gem I can think of that is made more rare and collectible by the presence of an inclusion. The wispy nature of the characteristic inclusion in damantoid garnet is referred to as a horsetail and once you see a gem with a well-formed inclusion, you will never forget it! Demantoid has recently been found in Namibia but the Russian material is considered the gold standard for this garnet variety and is too rare to be used in mass-produced jewelry and is found only in high-end custom pieces.
Tsavorite garnets are my personal favorite gems of all time…! This luscious green member of the grossular group gets its color imparted by trace amounts of calcium or vanadium. They were discovered in East Africa in the 1960’s by Campbell R. Bridges, a gem prospector and geologist, and, like so many gems, are surrounded by legends of adventure and intrigue. Unable to get a permit from the Tanzanian government to mine the original site, Bridges persisted, following the trail to Kenya, where he found another deposit and obtained a permit.
Interest in this vibrant green garnet from the trade was immediate. Tiffany launched a campaign to promote this new grossular green garnet beauty in 1974, and the president of Tiffany, Sir Henry Platt, christened it Tsavorite, in honor of the Tsavo East National Park in Kenya; a star was born. In color, Tsavorites range from bright apple green to bottle green, sometimes even with a slight bluish cast. They are rare in larger sizes so like demantoid garnet they will not be found in mass-market jewelry. That said the small sizes of tsavorite used as accents or in pave are a practical alternative to emerald and are therefore a great value.
There is one more gorgeous green garnet to consider – mint merelani. Another grossular subgroup of garnet, its hue is a pale, delicate spring green. Like demantoid and tsavorite garnet, merelani is increasingly rare and valuable, hard to find in larger sizes. They are mined from the Merelani Mountains in Tanzania, an area I am extremely familiar with. Africa is my favorite place on earth, most especially Tanzania. My love of all of these beautiful green garnets is due, at least in part, to my love of that splendid part of the world and its wild, untamed beauty.
There is yet more to be discussed about the world of the fabulous garnet. Next blog, I will move past green garnets to Mandarin, rhodolite, malaia, and those magical color-changing garnets.
If you are interested in learning more about garnets, or possibly acquiring them or any other gemstone, my resources and over thirty years of experience in the field of jewelry and gemology can guide you toward a jewel that will delight you with its beauty while gaining in value over time.
]]>In my last blog, I wrote about diamonds as an asset. But there’s a range of gemstones beyond diamonds that can be valuable long-term assets. Again, I stress long-term; gemstones should ideally be seen as collector’s pieces that hold and increase their value over a period of years. Like gold, they can be a method of diversifying one’s holdings, as they are more stable than paper investments. But one should principally buy gemstones out of love, and a desire to pass them on to future generations. With all gemstones, as with diamonds, rarity equals value. Natural gemstones, which have not subjected to heat to alter color or clarity, are the rarest and most desirable.
At the high end of the spectrum, the Sunrise Ruby was auctioned at Sotheby’s in May of 2015 for a record setting $32,420,000, or $1,266,901 per carat. This fabulous pigeon-blood red stone is the most expensive ruby, the most expensive colored stone, and the most expensive gem of any kind other than a diamond. Named for a poem by the Sufi poet Rumi, set in an exquisite Cartier ring frame, between diamonds of two carats each, its size, deeply saturated color and clarity place it in a category all its own.
Not all rubies have the same color as the Sunrise; they can range from pinkish red to bright red to brownish red; color is the most important factor in determining the value of any ruby, with the pigeon’s blood hue being the most prized. But color figures prominently in the value of all colored gemstones, be they sapphires, emeralds, amethysts, garnet, topaz or anything else in the gem family. And that color range is more varied and complex than you may think; sapphires are not only blue, but can be pink, yellow, purple or even orange. The color is dictated by trace amounts of elements such as titanium, iron, magnesium, chromium or copper. Blue sapphires generally bring the highest amount at auction; the most valuable is the Blue Belle of Asia, which brought $17,305,996 at Christie’s Geneva in 2014. Pink sapphires are actually rarer than blue, and generally more affordable on the whole, although the highest quality stones are hardly inexpensive. Again, depth of color is key here, as it is with yellow diamonds. With the lighter hues, clarity becomes more important, as inclusions become more visible.
One of the most exquisite jewels I have ever beheld was in the window of a high-end jewelry store in Sausalito, California. The size of an egg, and perfectly cut into a glittering oval, it looked for all the world to me to be a cognac colored diamond. I entered the store and inquired, and was told it was an Imperial Topaz. I had never seen anything like it, with its brown to orange deep hue and perfect brilliance. Named for the Tsars who claimed exclusive ownership of the pink topaz stones mined in Russia, they are the rarest and most sought-after topazes, rarer even than diamonds. The beauty I beheld so many years ago was most likely from Brazil, which produces the yellow to brown gems. It inspired me; I can still remember it. Had I been able to purchase it back then, I know its value would have increased many times over by now, although I can’t imagine parting with it for any price if I had it in my possession. Which is the best way I can advise you to invest in colored gemstones; find a stone you love, and want to hold onto.
If you are interested in making a purchase in the fabulous world of precious colored gemstones, my resources and over 30 years of experience will be invaluable in guiding you to your most perfect purchase.]]>
I’m more accustomed to writing about the aesthetic value of jewelry and gemstones, but I have seldom written about their intrinsic value – as an asset. While I would always maintain that most collectors should choose primarily out of love for the design, color and feel of each piece, their future investment value shouldn’t be completely ignored. I always refer to valuable pieces as “wearable investments.” Jewelry can be worn, enjoyed, admired, and passed down to future generations to similarly enjoy and admire. And while most investment advisors recognize the purchase of gold as a valid method for diversifying a portfolio, very few would see jewelry in the same light. Yet some jewelry can and should be considered for its investment value. This blog will concentrate on fancy colored diamonds; future installments will deal with other gemstones and jewelry as assets.
But what makes a piece of jewelry or a gemstone a valuable asset? It is true that record setting prices have been realized when certain notable gemstones have been auctioned, most especially rare colored diamonds. Just last April, a 59.60 carat Fancy Pink diamond brought $71.2 million at Sotheby’s Hong Kong, the highest price ever for a gemstone. The winning bidder, Hong Kong retail mogul Chow Tai Fook, immediately changed its named from the Steinmetz Diamond to the Pink Star. And while such an obviously extraordinary jewel will certainly retain and even increase in value, most of us are not in a position to purchase at that level. But there are many other aspects of a colored diamond that can make it a valuable heirloom. Let’s discuss what some of those aspects are.
With diamonds of any color, rarity translates to value. One of the ironies of colored diamonds is that they gain their color through impurities or defects in the stones. With white diamonds, stones of one carat or more are the most likely to retain and increase in value. Color is even more important, as is clarity. White diamonds need to appear colorless, while the value of fancy colored diamonds depends on the intensity of their color, whether blue, pink, yellow, red, violet, brown or whatever color in the diamond spectrum. The deeper the color, the rarer the stone, and the more valuable. This can range from Fancy Light to Fancy Intense to Fancy Vivid, as defined by the Gemological Institute of America (or GIA).
But how do these stones gain their color? The cause varies with the hue. Blue diamonds occur when a bit of boron is trapped in the crystal structure as the diamond is forming. Blue diamonds, especially deep blue diamonds such as the Hope Blue, are extremely rare. In yellow diamonds, nitrogen has replaced some of the carbon, producing the yellow tint, or sometimes a brownish hue. Green diamonds are the result of natural radiation in the rocks where the diamonds form; the radiation produces defects in the structure of the stone, which trap electrons that interact with light to produce the green color.
And then there are pink diamonds, increasingly popular. Some of the highest quality I know of are Argyle Pink diamonds, from the Rio Tinto Argyle mines in Western Australia. These are becoming increasingly rare, as the yield from the mine are diminishing, and only one-tenth of one percent of the diamonds mined are pink. Again, defects in the stones produce electrons which interact with light and produce the pink hue.
Gem cutters, when carving fancy colored diamonds, will frequently choose shapes that intensify the effect of the color. For instance, yellow diamonds, if carved in the radiant pattern, can increase the effect of the color and therefore increase the value of the stone.
Size is less important for these colored diamonds; their rarity and beauty dictate their value.
Should making a purchase in the amazing world of naturally colored diamonds appeal to you, my resources and 30 plus years of experience will surely make your decision easier.
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